Saturday, June 23, 2012

Motorized Bicycle - Other Parts

The oversized front motor mount hit the muffler.  A ball pein hammer gently massaged the muffler into submission.  The heat shield on the muffler hit the pedal so that was removed as well.  If I wasn't on a budget, I would have purchased an aftermarket muffler that fit better.


The wiring is pretty easy.  The kill switch, motor, and coil are all wired together through push connectors.  The push connectors looked pretty cheap and I didn't trust them to stay together.  So I crimped the wires together and covered everything in heat-shrink tubing.  The wires from the kill switch were zip-tied to the down tube.  Note: the threaded cap must be removed from the spark plug for the spark plug wire to fit.  Also, the coil mounting bracket is pretty flimsy.  I used some other unused steel bracket from the kit to mount the coil.

The clutch control clamps easily to the left side of the handlebar.  The hard part is getting the clutch cable pulled tight against the clutch control arm against spring pressure.  Make sure the brass ferule that secures the clutch cable is really tight or the cable will slip.  From the factory, the clutch was set so tight that I thought it was broken.  Luckily it is easy enough to adjust following the directions in the manual.  After some trial and error, I had the clutch tension set correctly.

clutch handle

Throttle and Choke
I really liked the look of the handlebar grips that came with the bike.  Of course the grip that comes on the throttle assembly did not match.  I had to slice the throttle grip to remove it from the throttle.  Then with a little shaving of the bicycle grip, I was able to install it over the throttle assembly.  The choke clamps right onto the handlebar.  The throttle, choke, and clutch cables were all secured to the frame with insulated wire clamps for a clean look.  I drilled and tapped the frame to mount the wire clamps.

throttle and choke

wire clamp

The kit includes a master link which allows you to remove the chain without a chain tool.  The master link is junk, do not use it.  It broke on one of my first rides.  Invest in a chain tool and adjust the chain length by adding or removing actual chain links.  Due to the large tires and fenders, the chain hit the rear fender.  I bent the rear fender in a vise for clearance.

bent fender (it looks worse in the picture than it is)

Engine Case
The engine case comes with a lot of flash from the casting process.  I removed the flash with a hand file.  A few minutes of work really helps to clean up the engine, especially on the cylinder.

1 comment:

  1. You have made a very informative post. I must say you have great knowledge about motorized bicycle parts.